If you’ve noticed London feeling a little glitzier than usual, your eyes haven’t been deceiving you. London Fashion Week has officially kicked off, and with it, some of the industry’s biggest names and the country’s brightest talent have descended on the capital for what promises to be a spectacular five days of fashion.
Kicking off the week, today will see collections from some of London’s favourite designers, with Mithridate, Harris Reed and Keburia all on the schedule. Later, eBay’s Endless Runway will host its live-shoppable show, before H&M closes out the day.
Long lauded as the most incubative of the “big four”, London Fashion Week has always championed fresh voices and new perspectives. Keeping up with the shows means getting a first look at the next generation of talent as they make their mark, alongside the established names shaping the industry today. As the week unfolds, we’ll be reporting live, bringing you the standout shows, defining trends and key moments set to shape the season. Stay tuned for updates as they happen.
Kicking off the weekend of shows, Paul Costelloe opened London Fashion Week this morning with a collection rife with nautical nods. Some references were overt—navy stripes and oversized buttons, anyone?—whilst others tapped into newer takes on the seaside theme, with gauzy pirate blouses and balloon trousers woven in among polished tailoring. Elsewhere, resort-worthy pieces, from oversized beach bags to swimsuits, were elevated with decisive tailoring.
Delivering the kind of romantic collection that women actually want to wear, Joyce Boa’s spring/summer 2027 collection utilised clever draping and delicate lace detailing set against a romantic palette of seafoams, lilacs, creams and deeper browns to create a decidedly ethereal collection. Decadent, but far from fussy, the presentation wove key trends—tulle, column skirts and sheer inserts, included—to modernise the timeless silhouettes.
About last night: a precursor to London Fashion Week, McLaren gave us a taste of the drama yet to come, transforming its headquarters into a runway for Designed to Race: Front Row, a collection created by Central Saint Martins MA students. Marking the culmination of a collaboration between McLaren Racing and CSM, the show invited students to draw inspiration from six decades of McLaren’s motorsport history—reimagining the brand’s legacy through the fashion institution’s creative lens.
It was all in the details at Keburia. Rugby shirts tied around the waist, open bags (thank you, Loewe!), knee-high socks and the usual military influences, all of which, decidedly preppy, swept through the show. The hero pieces were a tapestry shift dress and skirt with a horse-and-mallard motif—it seems art scenes do, in fact, remain a microtrend for SS27. On the ground? Heeled derbies—some black, some white, some sparkly! Jazz toes at the ready…! — Rebecca Rhy-Evans, Acting Deputy Editor
Backstage at Mithridate was an ode to the ‘80s. Half-moon manicures balance precariously on nail beds, statement liner sweeps from corners of the eyes, hair is blown out and flipped from side to side and cheeks are punched with fierce edges as an obvious Blitz kids ode—but the Mithridate touch keeps things soft, lived-in and glossy with an entirely nude-hued palette. — Shannon Lawlor, Beauty Director
It’s all power dressing and military precision at Mithridate, with Daniel Fletcher’s eye for reworked tailoring showing up in the form of corsetry as cummerbunds, oversized shirts tucked into pinstripe shorts and mini dresses sporting suspender clips. If there was any doubt what decade served as inspiration, the 80’s leather jackets, quiffed hair and pussybow blouses set against a “Suit it Up” and Life on Mars soundtrack told the story of retro workwear made modern. Of course there were Fletcher’s ubiquitous rugby stripes, but the message was all about the balance of work and play. Tutus *and* tailoring? Sign me up. — Remy Farrell, Fashion Editor
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